Sunday, January 23, 2011

Final thoughts on Amsterdam


Now that I have had time to think about our last trip, and let it sink in that it will probably be a very long time before I see Amsterdam again, I have a few thoughts and experiences to share. Having been twice in one year is obviously a luxury we will long cherish and gives me a great opportunity to make observations I would not normally have the ability to.
I must admit, that even though the weather was less than welcoming, I much preferred our second visit. Perhaps it was the familiarity with the city gained from our first trip, or the Christmas spirit. But, I'm pretty sure it was the lack of other tourists. The Mrs. pointed out the other day that we did hear more american accents more this trip. I'm not sure if we actually encountered more Americans or just heard more, due to the lack of maximum occupancy in every place we went. Mind you, it was still quite busy, but not the total chaos seen during the spring. I, really, can not even imagine being there at the height of tourist season. With one exception, the service at restaurants was better. Though, with the bar set so low from our previous experience and the reputation the city has hard earned for server apathy, we had no where to go but up. The one thing missing, however, was the great throngs of people sitting at the cafe tables that spill out onto the sidewalks, streets and alleyways from every brown and eetcafe that has at least 1 sq. ft in front of it. These seas of tables and chairs come together in a way that sometimes you don't even know which establishment you are patronizing. This constant buzz from late morning late into the evening gives the city a great sense of vibrancy, that was a little lacking in the winter. On the upside the crowds at the museums were much more manageable. This time through the Rijksmuseum was more like a cultural experience and less like lambs being lead to slaughter. The highlight was the ten uninterrupted minutes with Rembrandts "Night Watch". Just us, a guard, and a painting the size of my house. on side note; upon our arrival home we watched "Rembrandt's j'accuse" an interesting look at the conspiracy theory behind the painting.
Genever, the real reason we have gone to Amsterdam twice. This trip, we not only visited our favorite 400 Sq. Ft. on the planet, we also found time to try our luck at "de drie fleschjes", which was formally the tasting room for Bootz, until their takeover by Bols. It is now a Bols tasting room with more charm and less glits, also no entrance fee, than the Bols Experience across town. I had the one drink I had been eager to try, the 6 year korenwijn, which did not disappoint. The thing I love about Jenever is that it is refreshing in the summer and warming in the belly in the winter. It is truly a magical potion. The other tasting room in Amsterdam was a sad and sorted tale. The Admiraal tasting room is the tasting room and Belgian influenced restaurant for the A van Wees Co.. Our first try found them closed due to the 8-10 inches of snow on the ground. A condition for which the Dutch find themselves quite unprepared for. Our second attempt we peered into the window to see an empty space with one bartender cleaning glasses. and a menu hanging on the wall next to the door that was not particularly inviting. Sadly, we did not brave the empty restaurant. So we headed toward our first visit to the previously mentioned, although not by name Wynand Fockink. Truly, my favorite place in all the universe. Which actually brings us to our other visit to Wynand Fockink.
The day before we were heading out of town we needed to pick up some gifts and things so we headed over to the bar to pick up some bottles for others as well as some for ourselves. While making our purchase, the bartender mentioned that the distillery was open for tours next door. "Oh really", we said; And they were doing tastings of the seasonal Christmas tipple, an orange and spice liqueur called Kerst Borrel. The distillery is half kitchen half mad scientist lab with jars of dry ingredients and tinctures lining the walls and barrels with various concoctions aging happily away. The whole distillery was, maybe, eight hundred square feet, including the gift shop area.
Other highlights included a trip to The Hermitage - Amsterdam and The Dutch Resistance Museum. Both nearly empty of people but full of enlightenment. Another day was spent in the city of Gouda for their tree lighting ceremony.
And that was that, mostly we ate fried bar food and pea soup and drank local beer. I will be doing a separate post about beer, just because I feel it needs some quality time devoted to it and I'm sure you're sick of reading by now.
But to wrap up the whole adventure, my suggestion to anyone contemplating a trip themselves, if you want to do the museums and spend a more leisurely trip, and don't mind the cold; go in the winter. If you don't mind huge crowds and love to people watch then spring/summer are fine. As for lodging we opted for an apartment rental, this trip, which was definitely the way to go. Having the ability to reheat leftovers is a big advantage. I can't wait to go back, but like I said, it'll be awhile.

A Sia Saide

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

New in NoDa

NoDa finally welcomes the long anticipated Jack Beagles. By long anticipated, we are talking two plus years they have been working on this place. I'm not sure it was totally worth the wait. But it is a pretty tasty place to stop by. The Mrs. and I have now been there twice and I feel like I have a pretty good feel for what they are going for. Jack Beagles is basically, a slightly upscale, dive bar, emphasis on the slightly. It is small, seating is 6 tables and the bar holds a dozen or so people, and friendly. The menu is currently appetizers, burgers, cheesesteaks and fried hot dogs. We were told they would be rolling out more items like salads in the coming weeks. I want to start by saying I love their fries. The best description is the one from our waiter the first time we went, "Ruffles on steroids", pretty much says it. The first visit we made was kind of on a whim and neither of us was starving, but they were open and I can always eat. We had some cheese bread to start and I ended up getting a burger. It was the Gunslinger which is a beef patty with hummus and pepper jack cheese. It was cooked as asked for and I liked the textures. The beer selection is solid, mostly craft bottles and some cheap american swill, the half dozen taps are outfitted with an array of quality craft brews. I had some Allagash Cruieux and The Mrs. had a Breckenridge Vanilla Porter. Second visit was a dinner that ended up as a double date with a band mate and his wife who happened to be there when we showed up, I love my neighborhood. We started with some buried treasure fries, which are a do it yourself cheese fry thing. You pick from a list of stuff you want and they throw it all over fries. We ordered ours with gravy, onions, and mozzarella, trying to recreate a sense of poutine. Unfortunately with a new restaurant comes some growing pains and our server informed us he accidentally added chili. He was more than willing to have it remade but we were more than willing to eat it with chili. He gave them to us half off so all was forgiven. Main coarse for me was an Italian sausage deep fried into submission and topped with the usual suspects. The Mrs. had a competently made and cooked to order blue cheese burger. The atmosphere is laid back and they are just figuring out who they are. Which in a place like that is usually determined by who decides to take up residency at the bar. The service was friendly and, more important in NoDa, fast. But that is fast on the NoDa scale, which generally falls somewhere between slow and did you have to grow the grain for the bread before you made it to put my sandwich on. But, Jack Beagles is definitely a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Next time your in the neighborhood give it a shot and don't forget to call me.

Jack Beagles - 3213 N. Davidson St. - NoDa

A Sia Saide

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Oh Crap, I'm late again

To the two people who read this drivel, I apologize for my neglect in updating. The past two months have been quite action packed and I have barely found time to sit down let alone collect my thoughts. So, with that said. I wanted to do a quick update while I continue to arrange my thoughts for Amsterdam part deux.
Since last we spoke Broken Napoleons have finished recording our first record. An ordeal I will go into further in future post. Probably when it is finally ready for release. I have joined a second band currently named The French Handshake. Come to find out that is a much dirtier name than we had originally intended. As mentioned above, The Mrs. and I made our way back to Amsterdam. Work has been a roller coaster ride of emotions and my best friends keep getting pregnant. Also, The Mrs. and I have taken a serious interest in cocktails and with it collecting vintage glassware.
Sadly, my intake of food in new and exciting establishments has been a little lacks, but I do have a review coming up soon for the latest addition to the NoDa scene, Jack Beagles.
And, since it is the new year I suppose I should be making some kind of resolution that will undoubtedly unravel in three to four weeks. One change I have decided to make, with a nudging from The Mrs., will be the addition of photography. I have never been enamored of the idea, but she assures me it will be fine. For me this has always been about words and the need for me to write, however poorly, just because I don't get to do it at work and feel the need to do so. I will not be taking pictures of food in restaurants, that is so tacky and inconsiderate to fellow diners, but will try to add the occasional photo to ad context to a post.
I guess look for more posts in the near future and I will try to keep up better. But, don't hold your breath.